“This has to be a fake story, right?” I giggled nervously and looked over at my coworker whose eyes were wide. She already thought I was crazy, taking off at 3am on a whim on a Saturday morning. Most likely the idea of driving two hours to climb a mountain just to see a sunrise sounded nuts. She shouldn’t have been surprised that I’d be taking on another new adventure, but every time I do something new, she is my voice of reason, reminding me to be cautious and to stay safe. This blog post I was reading, however, did not make me feel safe.
I’m 5’3 and 132 pounds. In my mind that means I can take care of myself. I like lifting weights, I can carry big boxes or put a pack on my back and handle my own, but in all reality, my stature is pretty tiny. And this reddit thread I was reading was making me doubt my confident decision to go solo camping for the first time. I was so sure of myself I had Amazon Prime-d myself a new lantern, headlamp and tent. I was committed. I had been doing weekend adventures alone for months — all degrees of difficulty, some questionable path choices, but always making it out with amazing stories and getting even better views. The post I was reading was telling me there was a danger, especially for solo women going out exploring on their own. That we are more prone to getting attacked, taken advantage of or hurt on the trails and backlands and taking that risk was “entirely stupid and asking to get attacked.” I remember reading that and getting a faint shiver, enough to make me put a question mark on my weekend plans. I looked at Shelby, “it’s fake, right?” She shrugged and said she wouldn’t ever go camping alone, “I respect that you want to do this, I think it’s so impressive and cool, I just don’t think I would…” she trailed off.
But I’d already bought the gear. I’d already picked out a site. I’d already told people I was going. I was going. I like a little discomfort. That feeling of knowing everything relies on you and your own abilities. I like that anxious feeling that creeps up into the back of your chest, excited but also nervous of the unknown. I packed up my car that night and the next day after work, I booked it onto the interstate. Alone. Me, my new tent and a playlist full of jams that made me feel nostalgic and introspective.
I cruised up the interstate, tapping my fingers on my steering wheel, my left foot up crossed on the seat as I drove. I watched as the landscape turned from cacti and desert to rolling hills and finally, towering, emerald green pines. It dropped in temperature as my car climbed in elevation and I thanked my lucky stars I’d packed a beanie, long socks and sweatpants. I was gonna be chilly, but I was confident I was prepared and ready for this adventure. Once I hit Flagstaff I drove out towards Humphrey’s Peak. I turned off the highway onto a forest service road and took my sports car cruising on back roads I wasn’t sure it should be on, but I was meant to be on those gravel trails, so it was stuck coming with me. I wove further back, closer to the mountain base as it began to loom over me. Soon, the road began to lace up the side, such a narrow road I prayed I wouldn’t meet another car on the way up as I envisioned plummeting off the side. I got up to Lockett Meadow, seeing that every campsite had already been claimed. My heart sunk. I didn’t want to have to be a quitter. The last site on the right was long, with a deep cove that only had a few cars parked nearby. I took my chances, driving up in search of a hidden site that had been left un-camped. As I pulled up, a young lady about my age — Michelle — walked up to my car. “Are you looking to camp?” I nodded, my cheeks a little flushed with discouragement. “I have this huge site to myself, feel free to set up anywhere you want!” Michelle was welcoming and I could tell from her set up that she had solo camped many times. She had all the gear. She had her fire set up. She was at ease. She was everything I was hoping I could be once I started to set up.
As I started pulling things out of my car, I realized I had left one crucial thing at home. My tent. My. Tent. My. Shelter. MIA from my trunk. Again, I felt defeated and dug around in my trunk for something to salvage this mess. Then I saw it, my hammock. It was like a light had shone down on that ENO package and told me, you’ve got this. Damn right, I’ve got this.
I found two gnarled trees with wide trunks and plenty of knobs and bulbs protruding from its bark. I used my slap straps, trying first with the right trunk, tossing the strap as far around the base as I could reach. After twelve attempts I was able to secure the strap and move to the left trunk, met only with equal struggle. I latched my hammock to each end, easing myself down into the tarp before swiftly having my butt meet the ground. I stood up, looking around sheepishly to see if anyone had seen my failure. The sun was beginning to set, slowly bowing between the swells of smaller mountains at the roots of Humphreys. I breathed in deeply and sighed out plumes of silvery, chilled air. It took me two more tries before I properly secured my hammock and that is more success than I had with my fire.
I had purchased fire starter, brought a lighter and napkins while relying solely on twigs and logs near camp to utilize. What I hadn’t prepared for was rain before my arrival, leading to wet wood that was nearly impossible to light for a fire. I tried to start a fire with as much dry wood as I could find until my lighter ran out of oil. I had failed to light a camp fire. I sat on a stump near my hammock as the last slivers of light began to drip beneath the ridge lines. My head sunk down and I let out a long, exasperated sigh. This was not going according to plan….according to expectations. I looked down the hill, this was not going like Michelle’s solo camping excursion was going. I was embarrassed to even go back and talk about my trip after being so confident and self-assured. I got into my hammock, wrapped in my cheap Amazon sleeping bag, two blankets and my beanie.
Crackles and pops, snuffles and shuffles began to fill the quiet, crisp air. I looked up and saw that velvety black sky light up, inch by inch, with those beautiful spheres of light. Shimmery and slipping in and out of focus as I swayed back and forth. No cell service, no WiFi, no pressure, no expectations. I felt my shoulders ease and my body relax. I may have failed at preparing, but I was still here. Alone. I struggled alone, I tried my hardest alone, I was lying there in my hammock alone feeling defeated but also ignited. I opened my journal and penned my raw emotions to capture that moment in time:
“Nothing went how I had planned. It rained before I got to my campsite and all the firewood was soaked. The fireless fire starter I had purchased sizzled and faded away — not as promised. I sat diligently working on the flames for almost an hour, willing the little embers to ignite. They didnt. This wasnt romantic. This wasn’t what I’d pictured for my first time camping solo. The trees I picked were close to each other and my hammock sat much lower than the times before when I’d practiced. I was judging and doubting my capabilities — or lack thereof.
I was alone. With no WiFi to YouTube directions. No partners to ask for assistance and lets face it, if I had neighbors I’d of been too prideful to ask for help. I wanted to this on my own. Even if it crashed and burned (like I had wished my fire would).
I finally laid down in my hammock, pitch dark and too dark for me to read like I’d wanted to, but every single star made me sigh out in relief.
All the little things that didn’t go according to plan didn’t matter anymore. I was here. In the wilderness. Alone. The earth was settling like an old house. Creaks and snaps on the forest floor, nestling into place for the night. The air hummed with far off planes but all I could see was inky black and crushed velvet blue sky.
When your eyes adjust you can see galaxies. Milky Way sprawls over the sky like a thin layer of lace; the atmosphere hole punched with glimmering stars. Light years away, dying out but really coming alive, their trails reminding us there is hope.
Most people would think I’m crazy to do this. To disconnect. To be in complete solitude. As a woman, to set up camp and put myself in complete vulnerability — in an open hammock. What they don’t know is how empowering it is. To take off and drive, watching your cell service flicker in and out until it’s completely desolate. To pack your food, your supplies and feel confident you can do this. You can do anything. What they don’t tell you is how much deeper your breaths are, how much clearer your mind is, how much more in tune with your thoughts and your surroundings you become. I’d drive a thousand miles for this feeling of complete connection with the wilderness.
There’s so much out here that is bigger than me. Here is where I talk to God. Asking Him where I’m supposed to go, where he wants me to be lead. It usually comes back to sharing my heart, which terrifies me. But this is raw and it is real. While telling stories, writing about experiences comes naturally, it is petrifying. My heart bleeds on to paper and I’m asking people to accept this sometimes mangled, grizzly part of me that tends to have tiny morsels of beauty to describe. I’m just out here to trying to bottle up every feelings, sensation and experience I can and inspire others to seek outside the boundaries of cities and sidewalks.”
I reread those words and go right back to that moment. I nestled in, fell asleep to the sounds of hooves, whistling wind and the far of hootie-hoos of owls perched atop their branches. I woke up at 2am, frigid in my bag. My blankets had slipped off and my toes were nearly numb. I tried to sleep, but minutes ticked by feeling like hours. I slowly stood up and began to pack up my gear. I sat in my car with the lights off, heat on high, waiting for my body to defrost. The lime colored numbers read 3:30, gleaming on the dash, taunting me that I wasn’t getting back to sleep.
i had wanted to hike Inner Basin to Humphrey’s Peak the next morning. A 16 mile trek through the forest, which I could not wrap my mind around after hardly any sleep. I turned the ignition and drove back down the winding mountain sides. Once I hit pavement, I drove towards Sedona to hike for sunrise. I was not about to let this experience be a total bust. I picked a random hike without reading much about it and took on Bear Mountain for the first time. I summited just as the sky was coming alive. The hues were so vivid from that mountain top, hot air balloons dancing in the sun flares. I couldn’t stop smiling. I couldn’t stop saying “wow” out loud to myself. I couldn’t have felt more alive. I was doing this, all of this, on my own. Alone.